I lapsed in my catch up blogs again ^^; but I am truly determined this time. I’m going to try and update 2-3 times a week, then I’ll finally finally be caught up. So this blog takes us back in time to January 5th, 2024. My friend, Morgan, suggested we go on a day hike to Nikko, so go we did, despite my being not at my healthiest for most of the day.
My alarm woke me up early on January 5th and I immediately had doubts about the planned daytrip. I was still somewhat in the throes of a GERD/Gastritis flare-up. I don’t think I’ve gone into detail in here about that diagnosis, but basically sometimes I get double whammied with tummy symptoms and it’s pretty rotten. The thing with living with a chronic illness, though, is that flare ups happen often and without prejudice, and sometimes you just really want to power through so you can live your life, y’know. So I took a deep breath and decided to push through.
I packed a lunch and met Morgan at the train station. I explained my flare up situation to him and he was still happy to go. So off we went to Kitasenju station to get the limited express train out to Nikko. We encountered our first problem here. The tickets for our desired train were all sold out, so we had to go for the next one, which I think was an hour later. I had a chance to back out again here, which I nearly took, but luckily I didn’t. So we bought our tickets and then set in to wait. I grabbed a chamomile tea from the Starbucks at the station and that helped to settle my stomach a little bit.
We eventually got on a train and we were on our way up to Nikko. The limited express train takes about an hour and a half. It’s a fun journey as you watch the urban landscape gradually change to fields and mountains. We arrived later than planned. It was already nearly midday, but we didn’t let that deter us. We immediately went to catch the bus that would take us to the start point of our hike. Now, the bus was the part I was most worried about re. my tummy, because it goes up these ridiculous winding paths. But, happily, it was okay! I even enjoyed the journey a bit.
We got off the bus at Ryuzu Cascades and found our first scenic spot of the day. We also went into the gift shop there to ask the owner if it was necessary for bear bells this time of year. She said it was safe since they were all hibernating, so from here we began our hike, taking many photos of the waterfall as we past it.
The early part of the hike took us through a very wintery, barren looking area. Bare trees, sad looking grass, and a snow covered path. But it all felt magical to us. Snow is a rare treat for us city dwellers. Something we have to travel to see. It was a bright sunny day and we soon shed coats and scarves as we walked. Also, the fresh air and exercise was doing me the world of good as my tummy seemed to finally be calming down.
At around 2pm we stopped for lunch. We found a little wooden seating area with a nice view (I’m sure the view would have been nicer outside the dead winter months, haha). I managed some actual food for the first time that day (onigiri).
The next part of our hike took us along a boardwalk, which was also partly snow-covered. We got to a place called Senjogahara Marshland. Apparently it’s known as ‘the battlefield’ because there was a legendary battle there between the god of Mt. Akagi and the god of Mt. Nantai. I’ll include a photo of the very informative board explaining about it.
After the brightness of the Marshlands we headed into the decidedly darker, colder confines of a thick woodland area. The coats went back on and we started making each other jump with the quiet, eerie surroundings. Then Morgan jumped for real as several monkeys suddenly crossed the path ahead of us. I was actually the brave one for once and led us on despite the monkeys (they just minded their own business). So we continued on our way through the dark dark wood, hehe.
And eventually we happened upon another magnificent waterfall. This was the Yudaki Cascades. This was more than 70m tall and crashing down into the river below. We heard the roar of it way before we saw it. We got to climb up the trail directly alongside it, which was really cool (and rather tiring, haha).
Our reward for the tough hike up the side of the waterfall was a ginormous lake that was completely frozen over. This was Lake Yunoko. The next part of our hike took us round by the side of this huge lake. We got some glorious photos of it. Also, with it now closing in on 4pm, it was getting cold, so even my hat went back on by this point. I was very glad to have brought all the winter clothes with me I don’t usually use in Tokyo.
Once we got to the other side of the lake, we reached the Yumoto Spa resort. We finally saw many other people here. On the way we had barely seen anybody. It was still pretty quiet though. Most of the spas seemed to be shut. Maybe because we were still technically in the New Year’s holiday period.
There is an area here that is the source of the hot spring water. It’s full of these little huts that I guess are pumping the water (I’ve no idea honestly). But it smelled very strongly of sulphur. Not a pleasant smell, I can assure you. We also saw deer and monkeys in this area, which was cool.
We took a bus back around 5pm. All the way back the long and winding roads to semi-civilisation. We then had a little bit of time to kill before our train back to Tokyo, so grabbed some yummy hot soba in this cute little restaurant near the station. Then we hopped onto the train, gratefully clutching hot cans of drink from the vending machine and settled in for the journey back home.
Overall it was a lovely if tiring day out. It started out not great for me but the exercise and fresh air really helped a lot. Since then I’ve realised that exercise is usually great treatment for many of the symptoms I experience, and this trip was the beginning of that. Thank you to Morgan for organising this lovely day out. Sorry it took me over a year to blog about it ^^;